During my recent work trip to the Northwest Territories, I had the opportunity to experience the region in winter for the first time. Landing in bone-chilling -38-degree weather was a novel experience, but the dry cold, layered up, felt surprisingly refreshing.
Driving the Dettah Ice Road to the community I was visiting was a remarkable adventure. Despite initial nervousness, the whole experience proved exhilarating. This year, due to unprecedented delays in opening the road caused by challenging weather conditions, the Northwest Territories’ Department of Infrastructure announced the commencement of construction on the Dettah ice road after completing ice profiling.
The six-kilometre road, crossing Yellowknife Bay from School Draw Avenue to Dettah, provides a scenic journey. Various modes of winter transportation utilize this road, including charter buses, snowmobiles, and even cross-country skiers. Visitors are cautioned to drive slowly and stick to the road, although there are ample opportunities to pull over and explore the ice. In Dettah, visitors can explore the Yellowknives Dene Artisan Shop at the Chief Drygeese Centre.
I also had the chance to visit and climb the stairs to the Bush Pilots Monument. Perched high above Old Town, the monument offers stunning views of Great Slave Lake and Back Bay. It honors the bush pilots and engineers who played vital roles in the region’s history while serving as a warning system for nearby aerial activity.
On my final day, I ventured to Behchokǫ̀, the largest Dene community in the Northwest Territories. Formerly known as Rae-Edzo, Behchokǫ̀ is a bustling hub of Tłı̨chǫ culture and government headquarters. The community hosts various events and festivities throughout the year, drawing travelers from across the NWT. The community’s name change in 2005 reflects its significance in Tłı̨chǫ history and the landmark Tłı̨chǫ land claim agreement signed in 2003. Accessible year-round by road and winter roads, Behchokǫ̀ offers a warm welcome to visitors eager to explore its rich heritage.
Unfortunately, on this occasion, I didn’t have the opportunity to witness the Aurora Borealis during my visit to the Northwest Territories. However, it’s widely acclaimed that the NWT boasts some of the best views of this natural phenomenon in the world. The region’s vast expanses and minimal light pollution make it an ideal location for observing the dancing lights of the Aurora. Visitors often flock to popular spots like Yellowknife and surrounding areas for the chance to witness this awe-inspiring spectacle firsthand.
The Sly Cook 